Nothing Bourgeois about Cru Brougeois
For centuries, those wine producers not among the royalty who made magnificent wines have strived for recognition. Finally, in 1933, the best growers in Bourgs or Villages not associated with royal families were officially recognized.
To most Americans, 90+ years seems like a long time ago, but in the European cultures steeped in many centuries of monarchy and defined class, 90 years is very recent history. So, no wonder, the Chateaux of the Medoc north of where most of the royal families tread, are still viewed as up-and-comers or even rebels. Thanks to Dick Scheer, I’ve been buying and aging Chateau Tour St. Bonnet, Cru Bourgeois Medoc, Bordeaux FRANCE for the better part of five decades. In general, I would say that it doesn’t always deliver Grand Cru Classé finesse but, given a chance to age, I believe it would fare better than many of its classified brethren. Tonight with our weekly fondue (can you believe it, we were on a trip to California for two weeks and didn’t have fondue once), I popped a cork on a 2010 (14% abv) probably less than $15 when purchased on futures in 2012. This vintage is a wine we’ve enjoyed several times and it always seemed just a tad too young. Today, although still showing the fruit, vigor and fresh juicy mouthfeel of a young wine, it clearly has found that stage where the balance is perfect and its class is showing up. This is a wine that isn’t even starting to show the complexity if a mature wine but as an old man, I’m betting on thoroughly enjoying the remaining bottles while knowing that even if I lived to be 100, this wine would still be alive, well and astoundingly complex. Even the color looks like a wine with a future ahead of it. The nose is a complete sphere of fruit, tobacco, earth and an airy liquor volatility. The first tongue contact reinforces earthy rooty foresty flavors while emerging silky strawberry jam-like with an abundance of soft yet tongue gripping tannin. This is great wine!
Time to enjoy your 2010’s I’d say!
A Brian Cain, the Michigan Vintner
