Mass Market 2023 Cabs and more from Costco and Sam's Club

I’m always debating whether buying a wine with a specific appellation, especially one which is well regarded versus a generic wine from a long standing producer. Most of the top wines that I used to buy from Sonoma and Napa are now generic blends or so they appear but still good quality.

So, over the next year or so, I plan to taste many wines in comparison to see if I do actually prefer wines from a specific prestige appellation over blends conceived by brilliant designers to push all the right buttons. Yesterday, I had a glass of Canyon Road Merlot (Gallo’s mid-range restaurant pour) and it did, indeed, punch all the right buttons; soft, oaky, fat, fruity, perfectly balanced and long on the palate. For $5 a glass, the fact that it didn’t pretend to have any distinct quality was easily over looked as I gobbled down a big fat Ruben.

We were over at Sam’s club and picked up a few wines and some absolutely awesome prime fillets. Today, we hit Costco to get a few other items as well as a few more wines. When we got home, the comparison in what we bought wine wise offered up a compelling mini tasting. First up, 2023 The Federalist Lodi Cabernet Sauvignon CA (14.5% abv) $13.18 at Sam’s Club. This is a wine I used to sell when I was with Great Lakes. At that time, it was Napa Valley appellation but, I’m guessing that to stay competitively priced they went with Lodi in the Central Valley where property and grape prices are much lower. The nose is pure black fruit defined by currants, blackberry and a hint of spice. The middle palate is quite palate gripping at first but quickly melts into a long persistent tannic mouth feel. For most tasters, I’d guess it is a bit too young though I really like, overall, the fresh lively fruit and cleansing finish. Next up is 2023 Members Mark (Sam’s) Alexander Valley (Sonoma County) Sallyvine Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve CA (14.2% abv) CA $10.76 at Sam’s Club. I was curious how a house brand Cab from a highly acclaimed appellation could be a few dollars less than a Lodi Cab. Clearly, the fist whiff says it all. This is a wine from highly acclaimed terroir and as such offers complexity, finesse and very recognizable cedar, pine forest, pure Bordeaux-like fruit focus and an inviting maturity. On the palate, the high pitched berry fruit sings while the forest floor-like compost stays constant. It is quite a bottle of wine for the money and I believe it will age well. But, I’ve got to force myself not to put anymore wine in the cellar. I’m too old for that. Finally, I spotted what appears to be an unbelievable price on 2023 Kirkland (Costco) Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon CA (14.5% abv) $6.99 at Costco. I hate to be influenced by name dropping but the back label has a note by Andrea Card, the Coppola Winemaker. Does this suggest that this wine is Coppola for a fraction of the price? I’m sure that is what is suggested, but it is probably what Coppola was ashamed to sell under their own label! So, let the wine speak. The nose is much more mature than either of the preceding wines with a very seductive combo of strawberry jam, subtle oak and highly volatile plum liquor. The palate shifts gears with youthful grip, herbs, wood tannin and a very long bitter chocolate finish. This is quite an impressive wine, especially for $7. Again, cellaring a few bottles will pay dividends.

Of course, this is a very small sample so no general conclusions are advisable. In this small sample, I did like the wines ranked by specificity and prestige. All were equal quality, that is all were made expertly and precisely with the best methodology. Yet, I do believe there is intrinsic value in sites which offer a greater distinction and identification. If I had to score them, I’d give the Federalist and the Kirkland an equal score of 16+/20 even though, I’d rather drink the Kirkland. Something indefinable set the Members Mark apart so maybe, I’d go 17/20 even though it is not higher in any sort of measurable quality.

Enjoy in Good Health,

A Brian Cain, the Michigan Vintner